How to check a used Minox
originally by MSG ( from http://www.minoxography.org/board/messages/2/33.html?959917559 )
Okay, here's my first stab at a checklist for evaluating a used 8x11 Minox. This mostly applies to the mechanical-shutter German cameras - the II, III, IIIS, (A - same as the previous three, but with metric rather than English focus distances), B, and BL - but some of it applies to the later electronic-shutter cameras as well. Please think of this as a work-in-progress: besides stuff I will forget myself, there are undoubtedly things to check that I have never even thought of!
Overall condition. This will vary based on the cosmetic condition that is
claimed for the camera, but you don't really want any major dings, dents, or
heavy-duty scratches, do you? A few scratches or rub marks, or a single corner
ding aren't really a problem. Beware of cameras that seem filthy or overly
scratched up, like they've spent extended time in a dirty pocket or drawer
without being inside a case - dirt may have gotten in. Don't worry if the
leather case (if there is one) is falling apart - considering its advanced
age, if it's protected the camera well up until now, it's job is done! You can
always get a nylon knife belt case at a sporting goods store to use from here
on...
Shutter speeds. Try setting all the speeds and firing. At the lower
speeds, it should be easy to tell if you are halfing/doubling the time the
shutter is open as you set and fire on adjacent settings. Above 1/100, this
becomes difficult to determine, but certainly by 1/200, you shouldn't quite be
able to actually see the instant that the shutter is open, and 1/1000 should
be totally invisible. Overall, speeds should seem "even" with a pleasant
"buzz...snik" sound on the very slow ones and an instantaneous "zip" on the
faster ones. (Note that the later electronic-shutter Minoxes, starting with
the C models, require batteries to fire the shutter!)
As part of this, try B (Bulb) and T (Time). B should remain open as long as
you hold the shutter release button down, and close instantly when you release
it. T should open on one press and close on a second press. (If there are
problems with these indeterminate speeds, don't kid yourself that you'll never
use them and buy the camera anyway - Minox repair experts have told me that
problems here indicate emerging shutter problems that will eventually affect
the faster speeds too.)
Shutter blades.
While checking the shutter speeds, examine the shutter blades. There are two
blades - one for pre-exposure and one for post-exposure. Typically one has a
circle or other mark and the other doesn't. (On the IIIS and B, the circle
indicates that the frame has not yet been exposed, providing a quick visual
reminder if you have or haven't fired the current frame. But I believe this
varies on earlier models.) The blades are silver-colored metal, and may show a
trace of lubricant, but should not appear significantly soiled or gummy. A few
vertical lines on the blades indicating minor scratches aren't a problem.
Focusing. With the shutter open on the T setting, turn the focus dial
while looking through the lens window. You should be able to see the lens
assembly rotate.
Parallax correction. As you turn the focus dial to the closer distances,
look through the front of the viewfinder window (the opposite of the side you
normally sight through): the entire viewfinder module should angle closer to
the lens as you set closer distances. It should move back up as you turn the
dial the other way to set further distances. (Ingenious, isn't it?!?)
Viewfinder brightline. When you look though the viewfinder, the frame-line
shown should be a single, even rectangle, evenly illuminated. (Some slight
marks or lighter/darker areas within the border of the brightline are okay.)
Any doubling of lines or misalignment indicates a problem.
Any fuzziness or milky aspect to any area of the viewfinder image isn't good
either.
Glass surfaces. While you're looking at the viewfinder front/back and lens
window, make sure there are no major scratches, abrasions, or other
imperfections. Also, try sliding the filter bar (alongside the front of the
viewfinder) down and look at the condition of the green, orange, or gray
(neutral density) filter - make sure it covers the lens window fully, and
slides easily. On some cameras (such as the IIIS), the filter retracts
automatically when you close/open the camera - but on some it doesn't, so
check this for future use!
Opening and closing. This should be smooth with no major sticking or extra
effort required at any point in either operation. When closed, the seam
between the top piece and main body should be flush and even.
Film chamber and pressure plate. Open the camera and turn it dials-side
down, then use the thumb-indentation at the bottom of the matte-finish portion
that's revealed when the camera's open to release the lock to the film
chamber, and pull the top part (which should now slide off of the upper
housing) upwards to open the film chamber cover. The inside should be clean
and free of dust, and there shouldn't be any obvious wear on the sprocket that
engages the takeup spool in the film cassettes. When you push the camera body
(not the cover) back together slightly (about 1/8 inch), you should be able to
see the pressure plate (which is straight back from the lens window) retract.
Move the camera open/closed a few times to see if the pressure plate locks and
retracts - this is essential for operation. (While you're in there, note and
write down the serial number if you're curious about when the camera was
manufactured - lots of us have the listings from the Moses and Heckmann books
and can provide this info.)
Chain connector. If you have a chain, check that the chain plug goes
easily on and off the connector on the bottom end of the camera. When no chain
is connected, the spring-loaded bottom piece within should come down flush
against the bottom, closing off the hole perfectly. (Note that the earlier II
models don't have chain connectors.) Don't worry if there are some rub marks
on the bottom, it probably just means that the camera was frequently used with
a tripod adapter or other accessory.
Chain. If you have a chain, it should flow easily and have no major kinks
or dents. It should connect and disconnect easily with a quarter turn with the
D-ring pushed into the groove (and the other end should have a functional
belt-loop ring or trouser-button flap.) Since chains have beads set along them
to measure the close-focus distances on the focus dial, and there are both
English- and metric-focus Minoxes, be sure your chain beads are correct either
in inches or metric - and the same as your camera!
Frame counter. While you're testing the shutter speeds, make sure the
frame counter increments as you fire and advance. (On the BL, and later
cameras like the C and LX, it will decrement from 36 down rather than count up
from zero as on the older cameras.)
Light meter (B and BL only). Pressing the button in the meter display in
different lighting situations should cause the needle to move along the scale.
(Note that the B doesn't require a battery to power the meter, but the BL
does.) Get out a camera with a meter you trust, or a hand meter, and check the
readings to see if they are accurate! (Note that B meter isn't as sensitive as
the BL meter in low-light conditions.) You should be able to change the ASA
settings easily.
Flash sync (IIIS and later models). Get an electronic flash with a PC cord
and plug it into the PC connector at the top end of the camera. If your flash
is recycling properly, it should fire every time you release the shutter,
regardless of the shutter speed set. (Though 1/100 is probably the optimal
speed for syncing.)
Whew! That's all I can think of for now, but I think it's a pretty good start.
If anybody can think of other stuff, or wants to add steps relating to the
later cameras, please go for it!